Intro: 

We have kept Uromastyx since 2008 and there is an incredible amount to learn about them. 

On the other hand, there is still so much that has to be figured out about these truly prehistoric looking mini-dinosaurs.

These are the things we have learned over the years to provide the best setups and husbandry.

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Enclosure: 

Hatchlings and yearlings require a 20+ gallon enclosure. 

Juveniles require a 40+ gallon enclosure.

Sub-adults and adults require a minimum enclosure of  4’x2’x2’ or 16 cubic feet.

Larger species like Dispar and Maliensis require a minimum of 5'x2'x2',

Nigriventris require a minimum of  6’x2’x2’ and Aegyptia 6'x3'x2'.      

And as always, the bigger the better.

Wood enclosures work great for keeping in heat and absorbing unwanted humidity.

We also recommend using a small desk fan outside the enclosure…aimed at the enclosure cool-side vent to promote air flow.

Backgrounds are recommended for climbing species like Ocellata, Ornata, Philbyi, Yemenensis, ect.

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Cohabitation:

We encourage keeping uromastyx solo.

Not to say you shouldn't cohab them....but in our experience, they always seem to thrive more when kept on their own.

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Hides: 

Include 2-3 hides per reptile. Hides should be placed near the basking spot and the cool end.

The best hides for Uromastyx are ones that provide tight crevices and low ceilings that allow their backs to touch. 

This gives them a sense of security.

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Substrate: There are a lot of opinions on the internet about which substrate is best.

Over the years, we have tried them all. Millet, tile, rock, sand, coco-husk, ect.

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We are currently using a bottom layer of washed play sand and a top layer of rocks, gravel, branches and wood.

We have tile covering the area where they eat to make sure any food that falls down while eating...does not get sand on it.

To keep the sand from working its way onto the tile, we use small piles of rocks as borders around the tile.

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Humidity:  

Humidity should average no higher than 35-40% but ideal is around 20-25%.

If you encounter higher than desired humidity, you can try things like adding more vents and extra wood for ambient air absorption. 

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Heat:

Uromastyx require basking temps of 123-130 F (50-55 C) degrees for juveniles-adults.

Hatchlings - yearlings require a little lower at  110– 115 F (43-46C) degrees.

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DO NOT GUESS THE TEMPERATURE!!!

Heat truly is the most influential factor in your uros health.

Infrared temperature guns are very affordable and most usually run $20-30.

No reptile keeper should be without one.

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The cool end should be between 75-85 degrees.

No lights or heat are required for night time unless your temps drop below 65.

If you have higher humidity in the enclosure your night time temps should not drop below 75.

Lower temps mixed with higher humidity can cause respiratory infections.

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Basking stones: The type of basking stone you provide will determine the temperatures you achieve.

Darker, harder stones like slate and shale will heat up a lot more (10-30+ degrees F) than lighter stones like sandstone and mortar.

Use this concept when leveling out your basking temps.

If you have bulbs mounted and want to raise the basking temps...use a more heat absorbent darker colored stone.

If your basking spot is too hot...use a lighter colored stone.

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Basking stones should be low to the ground to allow the heat draft to flow off the basking stone and evenly onto the surface of the ground.

Building a basking spot too high will encourage the heat to disperse from the basking surface outward and then rise up from the level of the basking spot top.

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By having low lying basking spots, you ensure that the heat draft flows from the top of the basking spot...and carries out into the rest of the ground level before rising.

This helps with achieving proper ambient transitions as opposed to having the entire enclosure one temperature and the basking spot the only warm zone. 

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Basking lights:

Uro’s also require a basking spot that will cover the entire length of their body, head and tail. 

This can easily be achieved by adding multiple light fixtures close together and using lower wattage par 38 flood lights  

(39-50 watts each).

You can generate a larger basking area using more bulbs but less wattage.

Example - 2 par 38 flood bulbs rated at 39 watts will produce a larger basking area than a 100-150 watt single bulb. and it can save you 22-72 watts.

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The heat draft expels from the bulb based on the bulb size.  A higher wattage bulb will heat soak the same area but the wattage determines the intensity of the heat.

Using multiple low wattage bulbs will produce larger hot zones that take longer to heat up, but will also ensure that the basking spot doesn't get too hot.

 

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UVB:

A high output UVB bulb is required. 

Spiral and coil bulbs do not provide enough UVB or cover enough of the area needed.

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We recommend a t-5 fixture with an Arcadia 14% or Reptisun 10.0 uvb bulb that covers 1/2 the length of the vivarium.

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100 watt  Megarays are "all in one" type of mercury vapor bulbs and also works well for UVB but usually require an additional heat.

They put out high UVB but low heat.

Ideally you should have a UVB reading between 5.5 - 6.5 on the Ferguson zone.

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Food:

Uromastyx are herbivores and will occasionally eat insects as a treat, but we do not recommend feeding them insects more than once a month at the most.

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We feed our uro's  twice daily with the bulk of their food being served in the early morning.

By early afternoon, anyone who has eaten all their food, gets a second smaller serving. 

Some keepers feed once a day.

Some once every 2 days.

 

We feed a well rounded diet of greens and vegetables.

Our full 4 week feeding schedule is listed down below.

 

We regularly feed greens like Dandelion, escarole, endive and spring mix without spinach.

 

We occasionally feed Mustard, turnip and collard greens along with vegetables like bells, peppers, sweet potatoes, various peas, carrots, squash, green beans, zucchini & lentils.

 

Do not feed spinach, kale, cabbage, broccoli, ect.

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Supplements:

We offer powdered calcium once a week, Zilla jump-start once a month as well as carotenoids, spirulina and chlorella powder along with all the SuperUro food topping products.

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Overview:

Uromastyx can live up to 15-25 years of age and are a real commitment to keep.

They are in our opinion, the most unique, enjoyable and rewarding reptile to keep.

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Our advice is that you join as many groups and forums online and on facebook and learn as much as you can about these amazing creatures.

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Uromastyx club is a fantastic group on facebook with tons of Info, experienced keepers and breeders.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/396395070428291/